![]() I figure there's about 6400 combinations for the 100 cars. But I feel it will probably be a car-by-car experience, sorting through pins, trying each truck with each car, adjusting the height, etc. After my disappointment with Accumates, I'll probably forgive MT, and go back to them to convert the old cars for the third, fourth or fifth time. I don't have the patience right now to fiddle with the old cars. Right now, I'm basically running new cars. This was before MT announced their bulks packs of LP wheels. I think I bought 500 Atlas pins to replace all the MT pins from the earlier conversion to MT trucks.I don't save stuff, as there is too much clutter in my life. ![]() I thought I would resolve all these differences by mass-converting everyting to Accumates, as I mentioned earlier. I just can't deal with different hole sizes in the cars, different hole sizes in the trucks, different mounting methods, different bolster heights, different riding heights, different methods of mounting the car on the base, different axle lengths, different wheeel diameters-etc., etc. Over the past two years, I've just placed my "old" cars on the RIP track, or as queens in the yard. ![]() Every board in a mincomputer was a different version, with different jumpers. Part of my responsibilities in the 80s was technical documentation for the field techs. This thread reminds me of the early days of the computer industry, which I'll define as before the PC gained dominance in, say, 1990. Use about 1000-2000 rpms and gently remove the bolster material until the very tip of the grinding stone is level with the top hole in the truck bolster. Also, you will need to use a dremel tool with an aluminum oxide grinding stone attachment (a pink, cone-shaped attachment) to grind a bit of tapered clearance in the truck's bolster hole (from the bottom of the bolster) for the tapered part of the screw's head to nest in. The solution is to use 2-56 countersunk (flathead) machine screws. With truck-mounted couplers, the car body can shift too far left, say at the B end and too far right at the A end so that the car looks like it's crabbing down the track. The car won't wobble, but it sure makes coupling cars difficult, since the car body can shift too much from side to side to make body-mounted couplers unable to align properly with couplers on other cars. This allows the truck to shift from side to side. The problem with regular 2-56 screws is that they do not fill the bolster hole in the truck. It seems to work-but it is a LOT of work for one car. When dry, I use a small self-threading screw with a large head to hold everything in place. I cut the tubings to length, glue the smaller, longer one to the car and the larger to the truck. Then I use the next smallest size (they are telescoping) in the car's hole. ![]() I try to find a piece of styrene tubing that fits the kingpin hole in the trucks. Here's what I'm trying now (yesterday), on old Con-Cor passenger cars. I tried filling in the holes with Squadron putty, then jamming the pins in and I tried glue. The holes for older cars cracked over time there's never been a good replacement for some older cars. The wisdom of that choice is still very much subject to debate. How do you track, over 30 years, what fits where? I gave up a few years ago, and mass-converted to Atlas Accumates. If the kingpins don't fit, or the wheels have the wrong length for the trucks, I have trouble. Over the years, I've replaced trucks, then wheels within trucks, then the trucks again. There will be too much wobble, or the pin will just fall out.
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